We climbed the Mount Everest Region Trek!
…and what an amazing trip it was.
I’ve struggled to write about my Mount Everest Base Camp trek, not because I didn’t enjoy it, but because it was such an amazing experience, I am having difficulty putting it in to words!
I still chuckle when I remember my sister telling me she won the trip – I thought she only won one ticket so would be joining a group there. My wine ‘Wednesday-cigarette smoking-don’t go to the gym’ sister trekking Mount Everest, bloody hilarious. Then two days later, she asked me to join her! lol
Now although I can’t say that this was on my bucket list, what I can say is that I love to travel and experience new places so when my sister won the trek and asked me to join her, I thought why the hell not! I get to accomplish something truly magical with my sister and visit another country in the world. Not everyone has the opportunity to trek Mount Everest Base Camp, so I am grateful to my sister for winning it, lucky cow!
Day 1: Start Kathmandu.
Kathmandu airport is manic! People everywhere, rushing around checking in for their internal flights, reminded me of India. Monkeys wondering around outside and porters eagerly wanting to help. We checked in and waited to board one of the world’s most dangerous internal flights!
Can remember an older man was taking a photo of me, and the others whilst we were standing together. He wasn’t the most subtle, you know how your parents & Grandparents are when they use their phones, with their glasses perched on the end of their noses? Lol. I put my hand up to stop my face for being in the photo and there were definitely other people taking photos but there’s nothing you can really do. We were tourists in their country and its likely they hadn’t experienced life outside their country so were intrigued and interested. We were advised not to take photos of the children on the trek (unless you asked) and not to take photos of the women because the locals don’t like it and believe is evokes evil. With people taking photos of us, you understood that its not fair for them to have cameras shoved in their faces every second. They live on the trek; this community is there home so you have to be respectful of that.
Day 2: Short but spectacular flight to Lukla (2800m); trek to Phakding and set off on the first short leg of our trek, heading northwards up the valley of the Dudh.
You’ll be pleased to know we survived the flight and after landing on the mountain airstrip, I realised the flight back was going to be interesting!
“It’s funny that Nepalese have such short legs, yet they made the steps so big!” My guide, Keemar said. It was so true. But by hell that didn’t stop them carrying 60kg or more worth of food, drink and other household goods up (and down) the mountain to the designated Tea House. I was amazed. My guide said that some Sherpa’s carry 100kg worth of stuff. Do you know how heavy that is? These Sherpa’s, both men and women, ranging in ages from what looked like teens to late 50’s carrying boxes of beer, metal wire and flat pack furniture. I even dropped my jaw at the man carrying 10 plastic garden chairs up the mountain – yes 10. I counted.
This process makes sense though. There isn’t a bus or taxi service in the Himalayas, no luxury helicopter service dropping off deliveries to the locals. No trams going straight through the stone pathway – now that would be nice and easy. Yaks, donkeys and people were the deliverers of all the necessities. I learnt that people are paid per weight, not distance so this was their motivation to piling on the weight. I felt a bit of a muppet when my backache kicked in full pelt and my guide kindly carried my rucksack for a few hours to help me get up the steep hill!
Day 3: Following Dudh Kosi and ascending to Namche Bazaar, exploring the Sherpa Villages.
Dying. Can I even do this? I don’t think I’m prepared enough.
Guess who had a breakdown.
We were quickly introduced to a ‘Nepalese flat’. This term means a stretch of path that is a little bit up and a little bit down. After an hour of uphill, I really started to dislike this term 😂 and when that lactic acid was building up in my calves and thighs the relief I felt for when there was a short stint walking downhill.
We has three guides on our trip. They were literally with us every step of the way. They were motivators, first aiders, pharmacists, waiters, personal trainers, explorers and comedians all in one. Keemar, Neymar and Meymar.
Keemar stayed with us most of the trip, talked, learnt about each others lifestyles and played cards on an evening. He was also the one who waited for me to catch my breath on the steep hills. Neymar was hilarious, he was hyper and had no concept of pace, he also laughed like Mr. Chow from Hangover (YouTube his laugh to get the picture) 😂 and Meymar was the so calm and patient. Felt at peace whenever he was around.
That had not worked together prior to this trip!
There were 10 others in the group with us, with the group being very diverse when it came to age. People’s ages ranged from 18 to 65. Keemar told us he was nervous when he seen this.
We had the ‘White Walkers’ (Game of a Thrones reference in case you haven’t watched it!) – Husband and wife, father and son from Iceland. We genuinely didn’t see them tired or out of breath once. Not once! Well not until further in the trek one had severe altitude sickness and had to be flown to hospital! What I liked about them was that they were not competitive but always at the front leading and reaching the top of the hills before anyone else – they all led a very active lives in Iceland, skiing professionally and hiking regularly. The husband was passionate about Mount Everest.
There are so many different people on the trek, people from all over the world, all with different motivations to climb but with the same target. I found this quite beautiful, especially on the actual Base Camp – excitement being expressed in a multitude of languages but everyone understanding it at the same time!
My favourite view was the Milky River. This ran throughout the trek, a pretty icy blue colour surrounded by large rocks. Even up above the trees you could hear the river running through the mountains.
Out of breath, heart racing, climbing up and down. There was something pleasant about hearing the Yak bells dinging in the distance, as this meant you had a few seconds to catch your breath, wipe the sweat off your forehead, you know, all the classy stuff. Naturally, on the mountain, Sherpa’s and Yaks carrying baggage and other items have right of way, so you move out the way and let them pass. Each group rents a herd of Yaks for their trip and our Yaks climbed the mountain carrying 3+ holdalls approximately 12kg each which was impressive.
There was one day the Yaks could be heard and not seen, then in the distance they began approaching our path…. soon after a long line of 30+ Yaks are passing you and the other hikers causing a huge traffic jam, comfortably relieving themselves as they queue to get up the mountain. This is why I lived in my Buff – covered my mouth from the smell.
A donkey farted in one of the group member’s face. Hilarious. Especially as this middle-class moaner was a bit of a dick. Humbled him for a few seconds. Ha 😊
Day 4: Acclimatisation walk to Kunda and Khumjung
We naturally clicked with two Irish women, they were so lovely and had the same banter. Down to earth and played cards with us on the evening. During the trek, me and my sister ending up pairing with them… despite my sister having littler legs than me, she walked faster up the hills! One of the ladies got food poisoning and I honestly didn’t think she would make it. She was so unwell. I have never seen such determination to keep pushing through, nor have I seen someone turn so many different colours lol! On this day , we both went a shorter route with Keemar to the destination. It was optional and after experiencing anxiety the day before, I didn’t have it in me to climb the steep hill for 3hours, so decided to accompany the lady. The route was the most beautiful of them all! Was able to see the peak of Mount Everest for the first time. I did point out the peak to her but she was to unwell to notice. Was hilarious because she reached base camp without actually seeing the peak – was a running joke throughout the trip!
My sister and I fell in love with this teahouse with the most amazing view – we would have breakfast with the view of the peak as the sun was coming up and we all had ensuite rooms. Was the first teahouse I had a shower in and it felt so good. The owner was wicked! She was bubbly, didn’t hold back and seemed like an absolute boss. She would walk around with hand sanitiser before dinner and make you have some, lots of tips and helps for trekkers and had visited England with a photo of her with Prince Charles proudly displayed. I remember I got there before some of the others, so after sorting some lunch for her guests, she kicked back, took her hat, shoes off, and had a nap with the rest of us. She also specialised in chocolate brownie (more so cake) but it came in a cellophane bag so whatever you don’t eat, you can take it with you! We visited this same teahouse on our way back down the trek, I was happy about this, especially after the teahouses we stayed in further up the trek lol
Whilst reading my book, a man came in the teahouse and spoke with the owner. She asked how his trip was going and he explained that he is a freelance researcher currently researching a pack of wolves believed to be living in the Himalayas. I know right! I wanted to join him for a second then remembered how dangerous this would be – I’ve watched The Grey with Liam Neeson! Anyways, he camps throughout the Himalayas gathering evidence of the wolves to provide the National geographic who will gather a team together to film a documentary. He was staying for three months – camping in the mountains and then comes down to teahouses for food and showers. Pretty cool, eh.
Our guide, Keemar told us that there are Snow Leopards in the Mountains but it is very unlikely you would see them because of how far in the mountains they live. We seen vultures flying above us and a bald headed eagle. I still find it funny that even in the Himalayas, thousands of miles above sea level there were so many crows! Lol
On this day, my sister visited the only ‘Yeti’ skull in the world! She still refuses to accept it was a Yak skin shaped in to a skull.
Day 5: Trek through the Sherpa heartland to the monastery at Thyangbouche
Staying in Thyangbouche, nearly reaching the end of our trek for the day, Keemar literally pushing me up the steepest hill (he claimed it was a short cut) because I was nearly falling backwards, I get to the top. I was so happy to reach the end because that was a steep climb. Here we visited the largest Buddhist Monastery on the mountain. It had burned down a few years before… We watched the Buddhist Monks praying which was interesting – one of the trekkers fell in to the gong trying to get past! I was just glad it wasn’t me….
(The prayer wheels were placed throughout the mountain which you would spin clockwise for good luck. Reminded me of Eddie Murphy in The Golden Child).
It snowed overnight here and layered everything with a thick white blanket. It looked like Narnia when we were climbing through the forest. The sun making the snow twinkle. It was breath taking.
Pretty sure it was this night that my little sister was really craving chocolate and wanted to eat her Nutella straight from the jar. Because she didnt’t have a spoon, I suggested she used a cotton bud stick. Who would have thought the tiniest amounts of Nutella a time would bring her so much joy!
Day 6: Continue up the Khumbu Valley and then the Imja Valley to Dingboche
Whilst on the trek I decided to have a break from my phone, obviously, I used it for taking photos but I refused to turn on my data, and as you had to pay for wifi, I thought it would be a good opportunity to take a break from the ‘world’. I decided to buy wifi once, halfway through the trip to speak to the Mr to check-in.
I can honestly say, it was a little weird not having access to the world with a touch of your finger, but it was so refreshing to be completely away from social media and truly enjoy every aspect of the trek. I read my book and enjoyed spending time with my sister. I think you forget how distracting your phones can be, and how quick you are to start scrolling through photos on Instagram without no real need to. The amount of whatsapp notifications I had when we reached our hotel in Kathmandu!
Day 7: Spend the day at Dingboche to acclimatise
Today was a free day. We did start to climb Nangkartshang hoping to reach the peak (5.100 meters) to enjoy the views however the weather meant the view was not clear so we decided not to climb to the peak. I snapped this photo shortly before we started walking back.
We wondered through the villages and I bought myself a fleecy buff as the one I had was not keeping my neck warm. We then visited the Bakery! I know what you’re thinking, a bakery on a mountain? But trust me, the slice of chocolate fudge cake was delicious!
Day 8: Continue the ascent to Lobuje
I can honestly say that I have never been in awe of nature as much as I was on this trip. It was so peaceful, so beautiful – surrounded by greenery, glaciers, mountains and wildlife, nature was effortlessly raw in all her beauty. Looking in front taking photos, taking it all in and pausing to look behind at the view.
Day 9: Visit Everest Base Camp with overnight stay in Gorak Shep
We were told that the higher you ascend the less space you have in your rooms, and in-between your beds and they weren’t joking! I had to put my feet sideways! lol
Close to Base Camp, real close, ice all over the pathways I slid down the path didn’t I, right on the side of my leg! Had bruises all over my thigh and bum… but ladies and gents, we both made it to Base Camp! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
I didn’t know what to expect when we reached Base Camp, i had no expectations at all. I knew it was effectively a large pile of rocks surrounded by Mountains, but it was a beautiful feeling. Everyone was excited, all strangers sharing a moment together.
Day 10: Climb Kala Patter to descend to Pheriche
Imagine being so high up in the mountains, the air is thinner with less oxygen and for a split second you forget to breathe. My sister did, hahahahaha. Then we couldn’t breathe at all because we were laughing so much 😂
It was also around this time that my Sister didn’t change for four days as she had ran out of clean underwear (she had reversed her underwear at this point too), plus the temperature doesn’t tempt you to get naked to change either! A wet wipe wash my friend on the mountain. I couldn’t face having a shower if the water might of been cold. Sod that!
Day 11: Retrace our steps to Kyanjuma
Generally, the Tea Houses were basic but served their purpose, although the higher you ascended the worse the Tea Houses got and COLD. So cold. There’s no heating in the rooms, just an open fire burner in the communal dining / lounge area. So bedtime would come, you’d open the hand warmers, fill your water bottle with boiling water and lie in your sleeping bag with several layers of clothing on trying to warm up, and if you’re anything like me, you pee during the night so unravelling yourself from your warm cocoon was torture. Diamox causes you to pee more so that was annoying too. Back and forth to the loo like a yo-yo!
…and whilst we’re talking about the loo. Urine steam. Yes, urine steam. No, this isn’t a new beauty therapy I am talking about, this is the experience of relieving yourself in the morning, crouching over a traditional toilet to be faced (literally) with a warm cloud of fresh urine steam! I’ve never felt so outraged that my own bodily functions would violate me like that. Should of pulled my buff over my mouth.
Day 12: Descend through Namche to Monzo
Here we visited the Sherpa Barista Bakery, which was a nice change. Up the mountain the menus all tend to be the same and their menu had lots of different options so naturally we went for pizza and fries! lol
Here we also watched a documentary about Sherpa’s and the role they play for those wanting to climb the summit. They literally do EVERYTHING. Westerners pay £40,000, and the Sherpa’s and his crew will do all the dangerous and skilled work to enable them to reach the summit. Would I climb the summit? No thank you.
Day 13: Continue to Lukla
One of the Irish ladies fell on her arse. Dusty mud all over here. It was going to happen to one of us as we were all skidding everywhere, I’m just glad it wasn’t me to be honest!
There’s always interesting conversations that arise when there are so many different people in a group. One of the funniest for me was when one of the older men continued to talk about money and his fast car, then made remarks about women with tattoos and piercings working in particular roles, and how this isn’t acceptable. Was always going to be interesting when said directly across from my sister!
It was at this point, Keemar knew the four of us had enough of the others – there is only so much of competitiveness, classism and sly remarks about the pace we were walking before we became rather bored of it, and being that we have reached our main goal, i guess we felt we didnt need to worry about the ‘team spirit’ anymore. As Keemar knew shortcuts, the five of us, evolved in to Lara Croft’s and tried to race the others down the trail, running through the forest, swinging from branches to keep balance, it was fun….. and guess who thought they would copy us? Lame.
Beautiful walk, talking about the best bits, and the worse. Taking in the views.. and despite walking for how many days?! The last surge of energy got us up the steep hill taking us back to Lukla. You have to remember, that what steps go down on your way, go up on your way back.
This was the last evening we ordered our breakfast for the morning! Neymar was in charge of this… “Hot Lemon” “Tea” “Porridge” “Omelette” by this point, we knew what the options would be and what people would order! lol
Day 14: Fly to Kathmandu
Leaving for the Lukla airport, we were aware that it is extremely common that flights get cancelled daily, leaving limited flights to depart to Kathmandu. The longest people had been delayed for was for 11 days!! So we knew the earlier you got there the more likely you are to get on one of the flights. The owner of the teahouse from that night ran past us. Didn’t really understand why, however next thing you know, our groups rushing in a queue passing everyone’s luggage to be weighed and checked-in. Absolute carnage. It’s not very organised in the airport. Next, over to the security search, all our bags in a long line, we’re vouching that no one had anything flammable in their bags (having no idea if they did or didn’t) lol. Teamwork right?
Turns out then when we had tipped for our trip (customary) this included money to pay the flight attendants to get our group on the flight that day, plus the owner was the wife of a husband with a large influence so the flight attendants do what they’re asked. How lucky, I don’t think I could of coped staying there for any further days, especially being excited about having a hot shower and a proper bed. My sister said she would start walking back to Kathmandu if the flights were delayed after a few days lol.
We found out that only two flights left Lukla that day, and ours was one of the flights!
It still feels surreal that we climbed Mount Everest and reached Base Camp. Walking for 12 days between 3 to 10 hours a day and reaching an altitude of 5300 meters above sea level. I am immensely proud of what we achieved – it was such an accomplishment…… and goes to prove you can literally do anything. Life is to short to not experience new things, push yourself and make memories. We hit over our fundraising target too, which made it an even better achievement!
Check out my visual journal: https://www.instagram.com/theclumsywanderer.ig
theclumsywanderer 